Solento was one of those places that I hadn’t heard of until I was already on the road travelling. It hadn’t crossed my radar, I didn’t know about it, and I had no idea how much I would love it. Luckily for me, it was one of those places that other travellers I crossed paths with constantly suggested. I can’t tell you how many times I heard “but you have to go!” So I went.
Solento is a small beautiful town in the coffee hills of Colombia. Getting there we took a bus that weaved through mountains with impressively scary cliffs and impossibly deep valleys towards Armenia, the closest largest town. Since we were in fact heading to Solento and not Armenia the bus driver dropped us off on the side of the highway with vague instructions to cross to the other side and flag down the appropriate bus.
I was in good company with Kathleen, Lily and two new friends, making us a band of five ladies heading in the same direction. I had a good feeling about Solento, which was reinforced when a kind older woman stopped to pick us up and drive us into town since the requisite bus was slow in arriving. We weaved our way through green fields, streams and rivers in a slow uphill trajectory until we reached the center of town, which happened to be full of mini restaurants and artisans because there was a holiday that weekend. It was awesome to see, because you just know the food is going to be cheap and fantastic. Which it was!
A little quirk of the town is that all the taxis are Willy Jeeps, which are apparently surplus trucks from the US that made their way to Colombia after WWII. These stylish and useful jeeps have been lovingly kept and ferry locals and tourists around the town and countryside. We hopped in a shiny retro one and headed to our home for a few days- La Serrana. This hacienda/hostel is fantastic, with old world solid wood furniture, a great kitchen, one of the best included breakfasts ever, and a view of the rolling mountains.
The highlight of visiting Solento, besides the amazing trout served everywhere, is the Cocora Valley. Our band of ladies headed out early to the Valley, deciding to do the hike in the opposite direction of the typical trail. As a result, we ended up hiking straight up and over the mountain, which was extremely challenging but also a great adventure. It was my first time going on a substantial day hike, and first time reaching altitude. I probably, definitely, did get angry at the mountain when the trail never-endingly continued to rise. However, I forgave the mountain when I saw the view on the other side.
Arriving in the valley there was an unimpeded view of the hugely tall (60 meters high!) national symbols of Colombia- the astounding wax palms. They are these tall, tall, tall, palm trunks with puffs of palm leaves way up at the top. They look exactly like they belong in a Dr. Seuss book.
Finishing off the hike we headed to another fellow traveller recommended location- a restaurant called Brunch. Brunch makes their own absolutely to-die-for peanut butter that they generously include in a peanut butter brownie that made my life complete. I headed back the next day for one of the best burgers I have ever had. Ever.
In sum, Solento is a charming, delightful and lovely place to visit and slow down for a few days. The mix of clean air, delicious food, beautiful hiking and a stunning countryside make it a must do if you have the lovely privilege of being in Colombia. If you’re heading to Solento do yourself a favour- stay at La Serrana, do the Cocora Valley hike, and eat at Brunch. You will not regret it!!!
If you’re not heading to Colombia anytime soon, do yourself a favour- go buy yourself a brownie. You deserve it!
Curvy Lady Travels 